Technical Project Paolo

Currently reading:
Technical Project Paolo

Can someone help with the best method of how to connect the kingpin to the spring and body and ensure that everything is set at the correct angles please?
 
Well I've got one side on but I'm not sure if it's correct
DSC_0245.jpegDSC_0244.jpegDSC_0246.jpegDSC_0247.jpeg
 
Damian...not sure if you have the fat, rubber, "doughnut" washers under and above the wheel housing (wheelarch) to buffer the dampers.
There will originally have been very thin shims under the bar that bolts to the inner wing which would set the camber.
The nuts and bolts through the spring-eyes, tha top kingpin bush and the suspension arm pivot should only be fully tightened once the car is on the ground with normal loaded weight.
You're nearly there.(y)
 
I have got the rubbers on the dampers. These are new dampers and came with new rubbers that were bigger and thicker than the original ones. I have fitted these to the bottom mount and they fit well. On the top mount, once you fit the larger rubbers theres no room to fit the nut so I've had to fit new original ones. Not sure how tight you do the nut up to as alls you end up doing is compressing the rubbers. Might have to reassess this. I have put the shims in. Was thinking that I had to tighten everything and set it once I have weight in the car and its on the floor so thanks for confirming. The manuals tell you to take the weight of the spring on a jack which I have done but you just end up lifting the car in the air!
 
Hi Damian as Peter said regarding that top shock mount. I would expect to see more rubber than I can see in that photo?

I have got the rubber, then the cup washer followed by another big washer on my top mount. If you look at the picture below with my upside down jack, you will see what I mean.

I am not saying it's wrong, so long as there is enough rubber there to stop the cup washer touching the body work it should be ok.

 
Whats the difference between a 19mm front and rear brake cylinder? Looking at the ones that came off I cant see any difference but I've got in a muddle with an order and they are saying they're different.
 
I was thinking of a difference other than diameter. The pitch of the bolt holes are the same and although you fit a banjo bolt to the front and brake pipe to the rear they are both the same thread. It would seem that you can fit a 19mm brake cylinder to either front or rear so I'm curious as to why my supplier asked me to double check if I needed him to send me a front or a rear. Just checked my old cylinders again and I had 19mm at the rear and 22mm at the front. No wonder the brakes were a bit dodgy as the master cylinder is for 19mm. If you fit larger at the front you must fit smaller at the rear so the piston area displacement remains the same. Or upgrade the master cylinder. I'm going to fit 19mm all round to start with
 
Haynes manual says 0.750 inch, which would be 19.05mm. On Passione500 supplier site they show 22.22mm (0.875in or 7/8in) for front and 19.05mm (0.750in or 3/4in) for rear.

Checked a few other suppliers as I am in a parts buying mode, and they all show 22.22mm for front and 19.05 at the rear.
John
 
Last edited:
I'm sure the front cylinders should always be bigger than the rear. You always want the front wheels to lock up first, as the rear wheels will stabilise the car in a skid so you go in a straight line. If the back wheels lock before the front the car will spin like doing a hand brake turn..
 
Haynes manual says 0.750 inch, which would be 19.05mm. On Passione500 supplier site they show 22.22mm (0.875in or 7/8in) for front and 19.05mm (0.750in or 3/4in) for rear.

Checked a few other suppliers as I am in a parts buying mode, and they all show 22.22mm for front and 19.05 at the rear.
John


I got sent a brake kit John with master cylinder but the kit had 3 at 19mm and 1 at 22mm! He is sending me another front so I will see what diameter he sends
 
Keeping the original 500 sized master I think the idea is either 3/4 all round or upping the diameter of the fronts to 7/8 and reduce the rears to 5/8 (or metric equivalents).
The latter keeps the piston travel the same at the master whilst giving a bias towards front braking as is common on modern cars.
 
Keeping the original 500 sized master I think the idea is either 3/4 all round or upping the diameter of the fronts to 7/8 and reduce the rears to 5/8 (or metric equivalents).

The latter keeps the piston travel the same at the master whilst giving a bias towards front braking as is common on modern cars.


Thats how I understand it Peter
 
Back in the garage today and tomorrow with a view to getting it on its wheels by the end of the month. Got a new torque wrench for xmas (thats how sad I am) so torqued up all the front suspension nuts. Built up and fitted the second kingpin and changed the front indicators to orange. Have put plastic covers on all the nuts to keep out the dirt. Had to modify a few so they fitted over the longer studs.
IMG_1483806404.756555.jpgIMG_1483806424.597411.jpgIMG_1483806439.046686.jpgIMG_1483806453.898534.jpgIMG_1483806466.914175.jpgIMG_1483806480.983465.jpg
 
Todays little project is overhaul of the pedal box so I can then fit the brake master cylinder and route all the brake pipes. Dont think I'll get it fitted till next weekend as I'm waiting for paint to dry on the pedals. Cleaned the pedal box up with mister muscle oven cleaner and a wire brush. Think I've got the balance right between clean and patina on this one. Made up a new gasket out of cork rather than the tatty fibre original one. Half of it was stuck on the panel and got destroyed when it got removed.
IMG_1483877584.019393.jpgIMG_1483877607.560140.jpgIMG_1483877620.793905.jpgIMG_1483877636.595010.jpgIMG_1483877648.812674.jpgIMG_1483877897.645767.jpg
 
Last edited:
What year is your 500 Damian?
you have the alloy pedal box that is usually associated with the N/D model.
Is this standard on all F models?
The L model had a steel pedal box.
 
Its 1966 Sean. Will have to do some research on this now. The front side lights I have just replaced for some orange plastic ones. The originals were the more expensive aluminium ones from a N/D I think. I wanted to keep them but they dont fit the contour of the panel very well, there was a gap. Why I think they are off an earlier model
 
Back
Top