Technical 126 wiring conversion

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Technical 126 wiring conversion

Paolo66

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So the 650 engine and gearbox turned up today and I just have a couple of queries I hope someone can help with.
1. The new engine has an alternator. How do I wire this up? Make it simple I'm useless with electrics.
2. The new starter is solenoid operated and not cable operated. How do I wire this up? Do I need a separate switch or button on the dash for starting? Any ideas how to get rid of the old cable starter neatly or is just best to leave it in unconnected?
:idea:
 
Hi Paolo;
Look at the 'generator problem' page--Mattsdad is a very competant electrical engineer and has written a very good 'idiot sheets' regarding the wiring up of alternators.
I would have thought that unless you fit a much later column unit (poss off a 126) you will need to fit a starter button---look on the 'Leo Van der Laan' site on 'interior' of the 'tuning' section. they sell 2 variaties of starter- button/switch panel at sensible prices.
Personally, I would carefully remove the old starter cable (so that it can't get caught in anything)
All the best, hope this helps(y)
 
I'm putting a starter button in a new centre console on mine. The wiring is fairly straightforwards although you'll will need to Google wiring a relay and run a wire from front to back. You'll also need to modify some heater ducting to get the starter to fit. I couldn't find any way to use the existing starter lever as a switch so it's just an ornament in my car.
Alternator wiring is pretty simple and you can use most of the existing wiring for the dynamo regulator box - as Hobbler says there's a few how to guides to talk you through it.
 
Hi,

I have done this conversion with the help of the site. I was luck I had a early 126 starter which still uses the cable. My alternator was bunched so replced it with the dynamo I had to get me going.

Best of Luck
 
Damian,
When I converted my car I too ended up with a solenoid starter and rather than fit a start button, I bought an ignition switch for a Fiat 600/850/1100. It fits the hole perfectly, looks original, is easy to connect and has the usual Acc/Off/On/Start positions. They are available on eBay and aren't expensive (~AUD40.00)
I left the levers in-situ and removed the cables. Neither are connected as in my climate even in mid-Winter, I do not require the choke to start the car.
Chris
 

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Hi Chris
This is actually my preferred method and I've ordered one off ebay. When you took the wire from ignition to starter did you have to put a fuse or relay in the line?
Damian
 
Certainly neater than my solution.... :)

Hey - it's an Italian car. You have to expect some spaghetti ...

For Damian - I talked to a local autoelectrician prior to installing the new ignition switch and he said the neither a fuse nor relay was necessary as the current load is relatively low. A reasonably thick wire (5 to 8 amp rating) will be quite safe. All that is switched in this circuit is the solenoid which then acts as a heavy duty relay switching the big current to the starter itself.

When I get home tonight, I'll have a look at the wiring diagram for the late model 126s and see how it is done. I didn't have the 126 manual when I did this work - shame because it might have been helpful.

Chris
 
Hi Damian,

as promised please find attached a document on Alternator conversion.
As I said in the document because of variances in cars and dynamos/Regulators/alternators this should be taken as a general guide. You need to study your current wiring/alternator to work out in your own mind what you are going to do.
Always bear in mind the safety aspect of working on battery supply circuits and isolate the battery negative post before you go near any HOT/UNFUSED circuits.
Richard
 

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Does anyone else have a 126 solenoid starter and if so how do you wire it? I know the centre spade connection goes to ignition. I'm then left with 2 posts, one next to the starter body and the other opposite. Which one is connected to battery and which one to alternator?
 
Hi Damian,
on pre-engaged solenoid starters, the stud next to the starter body is the STA - starter terminal. This connects to the windings inside the Starter Motor
The stud furthest away is the BAT - battery connection.
To confirm this, connect a test meter on it's lowest resistance range and measure the resistance between the terminal and each stud.
On STA you should get a very low resistance reading (it will vary according to the condition of the brushes). This is the resistance of the Armature winding and the Field windings which are wired in series (so they each carry the same current).
On BAT you should get an open circuit (because the solenoid is not activated).
As I said in my docs, NEVER connect a HOT/UNFUSEd battery lead, espescially in the starting system to the battery without checking for short circuits to earth.
Chris can hopefully confirm the above re the solenoid connections
Richard
 
Maybe this has been asked before, but the new 650 Sport Engine I just bought appears to have a one-terminal alternator. It has a ground bolt and power connection and that is it. Where would the warning light connect on this? Or am I just not seeing the spade terminal?
 

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