Hi all,

First post so be gentile. I just bought a 68 500 and the clutch and pressure plate were stuck. So I could'nt drive it but the engine sounded great. Go her home and it then started to blech out smoke and it looked as if the engine was loose! So I drop out the engine and to my horror the bell housing on the box and the top right engine mount were snaped to the extent that there was a whole in the block.

Anyway I had a 595 126 engine fro years back but needed a box. So long story short I ended up buying a 650 126 engine and box for it. I know I have to change the shafts but am not sure how the come out of the box and was wondering what else I need to do to get this to fit. I looked at the haynes and it start talking about agustment rings and spliting the box.

Any were I can get a comprehensive step by step or advice on this Im sure its been asked before!

Thanks,

Robbie

Robbie,

Welcome to the list and sorry to hear about your blown engine

Have a look here -

http://www.flickr.com/photos/ricambifiat500/sets/72157615692546231/

Ignore the food photos
If you have a bit of mechanical experience, this is not a hard job.

Chris

Thanks for that,

Thats was very informative but have another question. Can I just put the full Diff with shafts and all from the 500 box to the 126? It would just sve the spliting of the Diff. Also the "adjustment clips" on either side of the box behind the dust cover how do I set thoughs or do you have to?

Sorry for the questions I have more vw experiance and would never have split a box.

Thanks again!

RobbieDunne said:

Thanks for that,

Thats was very informative but have another question. Can I just put the full Diff with shafts and all from the 500 box to the 126? It would just sve the spliting of the Diff.
Also the "adjustment clips" on either side of the box behind the dust cover how do I set thoughs or do you have to?

Click to expand...

Robbie,

I've never done it, but it should all fit. However if you are going to mate the box with a 650 motor (you'll have to as the bellhousings are different) you still need to fit the thicker 500R shafts. In summary, the 126 has a wider rear track and the halfshafts are thicker as well as longer - they don't fit the 500.

The bearing housing bolts to the differential casing - there are no shims between the two.

The adjuster lock ring fits inside the oil boot which is secured with the retainer. Once again there is no adjustment necessary.

I've attached a photo.

Chris

Hi and welcome, in answer to your question it would be unwise to swap the whole differential assembly. The 500 and 126 have different ratios of the crownwheel which are matched and successful meshing of the gears requires skill and experience..
It is very easy to split the diff once it is removed and fitting the new shafts and can be done without disturbing the adjustment of the differential. Good Luck!

Hi and thanks again.

So I will need the 500R shafts? Just I was told I could just use the ones from my own 500 box but give the 19mm vs 25mm difference would make sense. Need some R shafts now!

Thanks

Robbie
AKA the newbie

Yes - you'll need the thicker shafts.

As Damon has said, this is not a difficult job.

Chris

The splines in the hubs at the outer end of the shafts are a real weak point, especially on the smaller diameter ones - can't remember how many I replaced years ago. (Mind you, my 500 had a flat twin BMW 700 engine latterly so they were coping with about 40bhp.)

Hi all,

Thanks for all the advice appreciate it.The info at home is tin on the ground. I have the parts on order from motobambino. Just one more question as the 126 engine has an alternator on it and was wondering if there is a wireing diagram to wire it?

Thanks again.

Robbie,
I've attached the diagram that I used when I changed from a dynamo to an alternator.
Hope this helps,
Chris

Thanks for that.

I had the alternator checked before I reassmeble engine but its in bits looks like the engine spent time out in the weather and the inside of the alternator is to far gone. So for the moment i'l be putting the dynamo on the engine as parts are few and far between. Awell its bin a bumpy road so far with this its fighting me all the way. But i got the the tin wear cleaned up and freshly painted so thats somthing.

Thanks again.

Robbie,
You might find that the mounts for the dynamo and alternator are different. Give it a go though and let us know how you get on.
Chris

Chris, if you're fitting a 126 engine and box to a 500, are there any other parts from a 126 which can also be used in a 500? I'm wondering whether to get a donor 126, or simply look for an engine and box.

Matt,
The alternator you know about.
The half-shafts you know about.
The starter is different - the 126 one is solenoid, not cable, actuated so you will have to wire it up. You can use an 850 ignition switch.
The tinware is slightly different in that the warm air take-off to the cabin points in a different direction.
Also, because of the position of the starter you'll need the 126 metal air conduit - it has a sculpted part that gives enough clearance for the starter electrics.
The standard 500 rear engine mount is OK though you'll have to swap the two mounting studs.
I can't think of anything else at present. I solved the problem by buying a whole but very rusty 126 and cannibalising it for parts. Have a look at the thread on the 695 engine that I built and installed (it's now a sticky) and also a thread entitled Project Bambino. Both have lots of information as well as photos.
Keep us informed,
Chris

Hi,

I have an early 126 starter which is cable opperated from a previous project just for info perposes. I hav'nt looked at the ducting problem yet but am well on the way to finishing this with just parts. I could'nt find a 126 and never intended on this conversion only as the engine and box had the problems I said what the hey. I'm 500euro into the conversion given the engine box and all other bits I've had to get and I'm really hoping its worth it!

Another problem is I have come accross is the 126 carb has a fuel return on it which means I'l have to put a return to the tank or try fit the 500 carb to it.

Is there much of a difference in performance and drivability?

I didn't know that the 126s were ever fitted with a cable start - you learn something every day

The carby return can be blanked off. The 500 carby is a 26IMB whereas the 126 one is at least a 28IMB - more air, more fuel and more power. The 500 carby will fit but it will strangle the engine.

Yes there is a noticeable difference. With a 126 conversion you will be able to keep up with the traffic and you'll have synchro on all but 1st gear.

Is it worth it? You bet it is. These little cars are drop dead cute and an appreciating asset. Even if it doesn't go anywhere, you can use it as a piece of pop art

Chris

Ok Update,

The engine is in and just changing a few more bits. The dynamo stand fits the block but the fan shroud is different than the alternator so it had to be changed. Oh the cable for the pull start is to short to reach the new postion of the starter so will have to be modified. I fit the shafts in the gearbox it was'nt that bad a job in the end hope all is ok when it comes to the test.

So how did other people adapt the heater pipe?

Thanks again for all the advice!

RobbieDunne said:

So how did other people adapt the heater pipe?

Thanks again for all the advice!

Click to expand...

Big piece of airconditioning ducting bypassing the centre metal duct.

Chris

Update on this,

The engine and box are in and she lives! its running reasonably well considering it has'nt run in a long while. Only a few issue to sort now a good carb clean and the gear linkage need an ajustment as I can't get reverse and it looks like it been pushed forward.

Robbie

Robbie,
Fantastic.
When you have some time, please tell us what worked, what didn't, what was easy and what was a pain in the bum.
Oh yeah, please post some photos as well
Chris