Hi all, looking for a little bit of advice for my 126.
Restored ground-up from a rolling shell - the engine is new to this particular car though
(about 150 miles together so far).

After the first 100 miles of the engine being in my 126 (which already has a reported 23k on it), decided this was a decent run-in and everything was running together well, apart from a little niggle :

1) The engine runs pretty erratically.
With the choke up it's ok. After the engine's warm and the chock is released - it bounces, chugs, almost stalls, rocks the car etc.
Up to temp, I adjusted the carb screws (but to be honest, it seemed to bear little relation to what the engine was behaving like) Found an FAIRLY satisfactory idle. Following day - back to running rough when warm. Decided to dismantle the carbs, clean them up and replace the gaskets. Reinstalled and still a dodgy basic idle. Took it to a mechanic mate who tinkered around and his professional verdict - it's a Fiat. :bang:

Not expecting Rolls Royce silent running, just want to avoid the gamble of when I slow down at a junction - whether the car's going to stall or idle neatly (currently, it's more inclined to stall!)

Does anyone have any beginner hints / advice on how to deal with these little carbs, would be much appreciated!

Cheers in advance

I have the same prob. Exactly as you described. Initially it was the carb base spacer (warped) that was causing a vacuum, spraying carb cleaner around the base and if idle increases, you have a leak -fixed that to no avail. I'm going to strip the carb again and this time soak it in fuel overnight then spray a can of carb cleaner thru it!. I read somewhere that there are 3 very tiny holes that feed into the venturi by the butterfly flap and are fed from the Idle Jet. These can get clogged or blocked over time - particularly if the carbs left sitting around for some time.

Popular conversions to use are either a Weber 30DIC from an 850 or a single DCOE carb. Both will need an inlet manifold to suit ( i've not long sold an alquatti manifold for a DIC).
Ideally these should be matched with a better exhaust and a decent cam.
But before you start throwing away the carb, check the points! I don't want to teach anyone to suck eggs, but the timing and points are critical and most points tend to close up when hot. I have always set them by eye and slightly wider than the manual states. Worth taking five minutes to check.