Technical 2015 (319) Fiat Panda cross 4x4 - Replacing front lower control arms and ball joints procedure.

Currently reading:
Technical 2015 (319) Fiat Panda cross 4x4 - Replacing front lower control arms and ball joints procedure.

Bio1213

Member
Joined
Feb 1, 2021
Messages
35
Points
63
The lower front ball joints on my 2015 Fiat Panda cross 4x4 1.3MJ had become excessively worn, as the car has completed 50,000 miles I decided to replace both front lower control arms (wishbones).
The following procedure may be of interest to forum members and does NOT require the removal of the front of the car.
1) Chock both rear tyres.
2) Loosen the wheel nuts on both front wheels.
3) Jack the front of the car onto axle stands allowing sufficient ground clearance of approximately 30 cm / 12" inches.
4) Remove both front wheels.
5) Remove both plastic inner wing protectors.
6) Remove front sump guard.
7) Remove the 3 plastic studs securing the front of the car to the bumper.
8) Slacken off the 3 bolts securing the bottom part of the front of the car, these are just below the 2 front fog lights on either side high up.
9) Holding the bottom part of the front of the car gently pull it towards you, this will unclip the sides, you only need to pull the lower part out approximately 8 cm / 3" inches.
10) Wedge the bottom front of the car between the front steel bumper bar and lower part of the front, allowing approximately 75cm /3" clearance, I utilised 2 blocks of wood.
11) Where the two tow hooks are located on the front bumper, there are 4 bolts on each side, the nuts on the opposite side are accessible from within the wheel arch are captive, welded into position, so an additional spanner / socket is not required.
12) The 8 bolts are tight so using a breaker bar "crack off" the 8 bolts then fully loosen with a ratchet, remove the bolts.
13) Working from the wheel arch position loosen the top bolt from the vertical support arm, then remove the lower bolt, there is no requirement to remove the bar.
14) From under the front subframe remove the 2 securing bolts, these are very tight i used a 24" breaker bar.
15) Remove the detachable part of the front sub frame, this will then allow access to 1 of 2 bolts securing the control arm in position.
16) Remove the single bolt securing the control arm to the subframe the one that has just been exposed, it's very tight so a large breaker bar will be necessary.
17) Remove the other bolt from under the subframe securing the control arm into position (2 in total), the nut on top of the subframe is not captive, welded in position so another socket / spanner will be required.
18) Remove the pinch bolt securing the bottom ball joint from the hub assembly.
15) Using a ball joint splitter tool disconnect the ball joint from the hub.
16) The complete Control arm can now be removed by using pry bars and a hammer.
17) Apply silicone, ceramic, or red rubber grease liberally into the 2 areas where the control arm is located, do NOT use copper grease as this will cause the rubber bushes to deteriorate prematurely.
18) Firstly line up the bush closest to the rear of the car, once it's correctly aligned replace the nut and bolt loosely, do not tighten.
19) Forcing the control arm down swivel it around to the other side where the bush is secured with the single non- accessible bolt, this is quite difficult, replace the bolt loosely.
20) Align the ball joint and reinstall into the hub, it will need assistance from a dead blow mallet or similar, replace the pinch bolt and nut but do not fully tighten.
21) Raise up the shock absorber to the end of its travel by placing a jack under the bottom ball joint, this simulates the car supporting its own weight on all 4 wheels and being level.
22) Tighten the 2 bolts securing the control arm.
23) Tighten the ball joint pinch bolt.
24) Remove the jack.
25) Replace and secure back into position the removable lateral subframe.
26) Remove wedges from the front lower part of the car, replace all securing bolts.
27) Replace plastic inner wing protector and tighten all screws, bolts and nuts.
28) Replace opposite lower control arm if required.
29) Replace Jack lift car, remove axle stands, lower car to the ground, remove rear wheel chocks.
30) Road test car.
Additional notes:-
There is NO requirement to disconnect any of the daylight running or fog lights and the complete lower front of the car.
Clean the threads of all the bolts with a wire brush and and apply either copper or ceramic grease.
Replacement control arms and ball joint pinch bolts are all available from "shop4parts".
If you require any further advice or assistance please message me.
Good luck.
Best regards,
Steve.
 
The lower front ball joints on my 2015 Fiat Panda cross 4x4 1.3MJ had become excessively worn, as the car has completed 50,000 miles I decided to replace both front lower control arms (wishbones).
The following procedure may be of interest to forum members and does NOT require the removal of the front of the car.
1) Chock both rear tyres.
2) Loosen the wheel nuts on both front wheels.
3) Jack the front of the car onto axle stands allowing sufficient ground clearance of approximately 30 cm / 12" inches.
4) Remove both front wheels.
5) Remove both plastic inner wing protectors.
6) Remove front sump guard.
7) Remove the 3 plastic studs securing the front of the car to the bumper.
8) Slacken off the 3 bolts securing the bottom part of the front of the car, these are just below the 2 front fog lights on either side high up.
9) Holding the bottom part of the front of the car gently pull it towards you, this will unclip the sides, you only need to pull the lower part out approximately 8 cm / 3" inches.
10) Wedge the bottom front of the car between the front steel bumper bar and lower part of the front, allowing approximately 75cm /3" clearance, I utilised 2 blocks of wood.
11) Where the two tow hooks are located on the front bumper, there are 4 bolts on each side, the nuts on the opposite side are accessible from within the wheel arch are captive, welded into position, so an additional spanner / socket is not required.
12) The 8 bolts are tight so using a breaker bar "crack off" the 8 bolts then fully loosen with a ratchet, remove the bolts.
13) Working from the wheel arch position loosen the top bolt from the vertical support arm, then remove the lower bolt, there is no requirement to remove the bar.
14) From under the front subframe remove the 2 securing bolts, these are very tight i used a 24" breaker bar.
15) Remove the detachable part of the front sub frame, this will then allow access to 1 of 2 bolts securing the control arm in position.
16) Remove the single bolt securing the control arm to the subframe the one that has just been exposed, it's very tight so a large breaker bar will be necessary.
17) Remove the other bolt from under the subframe securing the control arm into position (2 in total), the nut on top of the subframe is not captive, welded in position so another socket / spanner will be required.
18) Remove the pinch bolt securing the bottom ball joint from the hub assembly.
15) Using a ball joint splitter tool disconnect the ball joint from the hub.
16) The complete Control arm can now be removed by using pry bars and a hammer.
17) Apply silicone, ceramic, or red rubber grease liberally into the 2 areas where the control arm is located, do NOT use copper grease as this will cause the rubber bushes to deteriorate prematurely.
18) Firstly line up the bush closest to the rear of the car, once it's correctly aligned replace the nut and bolt loosely, do not tighten.
19) Forcing the control arm down swivel it around to the other side where the bush is secured with the single non- accessible bolt, this is quite difficult, replace the bolt loosely.
20) Align the ball joint and reinstall into the hub, it will need assistance from a dead blow mallet or similar, replace the pinch bolt and nut but do not fully tighten.
21) Raise up the shock absorber to the end of its travel by placing a jack under the bottom ball joint, this simulates the car supporting its own weight on all 4 wheels and being level.
22) Tighten the 2 bolts securing the control arm.
23) Tighten the ball joint pinch bolt.
24) Remove the jack.
25) Replace and secure back into position the removable lateral subframe.
26) Remove wedges from the front lower part of the car, replace all securing bolts.
27) Replace plastic inner wing protector and tighten all screws, bolts and nuts.
28) Replace opposite lower control arm if required.
29) Replace Jack lift car, remove axle stands, lower car to the ground, remove rear wheel chocks.
30) Road test car.
Additional notes:-
There is NO requirement to disconnect any of the daylight running or fog lights and the complete lower front of the car.
Clean the threads of all the bolts with a wire brush and and apply either copper or ceramic grease.
Replacement control arms and ball joint pinch bolts are all available from "shop4parts".
If you require any further advice or assistance please message me.
Good luck.
Best regards,
Steve.

Many thanks for typing all that, I have this job to do myself, one question that I do have, torque settings for all these fasteners, do you or anyone else happen to have them?
 
Many thanks for typing all that, I have this job to do myself, one question that I do have, torque settings for all these fasteners, do you or anyone else happen to have them?
Good afternoon earthman,
I did not use a torque wrench when I completed this job.
Someone on this forum may have the torque details?
Any problems please message me.
Good luck.
 
Thanks, no problem, somtimes it's impossible to even get a torque wrench on some fasteners I know so it comes down to arm stength/judgement.
 
Thanks, no problem, somtimes it's impossible to even get a torque wrench on some fasteners I know so it comes down to arm stength/judgement.
Hi again earthman......
I have many years mechanical fitting experience so in this instance I did not feel it necessary to use a torque wrench.
On re-assembly I applied copper grease to all the treads of the bolts etc.
You will need a large breaker bar to undo some of the bolts as they are tight and had thread lock applied to the threads.
 
I started working on a moped at the age of 16, all these decades later, I've never taken any vehicle that I've owned to a garage for service or repair, it's kind of a hobby I guess and I seem to like buying tools over the years, I bought an hydraulic press for example years ago, my home garage is pretty well equipped.
I really don't like much of this modern design and tech that they have thrown at vehicles over the years, not being able to just replace the ball joint and having to remove a sub chassis part just to get to a bolt seems crazy to me.
 
I started working on a moped at the age of 16, all these decades later, I've never taken any vehicle that I've owned to a garage for service or repair, it's kind of a hobby I guess and I seem to like buying tools over the years, I bought an hydraulic press for example years ago, my home garage is pretty well equipped.
I really don't like much of this modern design and tech that they have thrown at vehicles over the years, not being able to just replace the ball joint and having to remove a sub chassis part just to get to a bolt seems crazy to me.
Hi again earthman.......
With your experience you will not need to use a torque wrench.
This is unfortunately an awkward job, the lateral member could have been designed far easier to remove, I found a few choice swear words helped lol......
Yes it's a awful design having to remove the lateral member to access just one bolt!
If you utilise my method then there is no need to remove the front bumper which also entails disconnecting all the light cables etc, I'm a great believer in making any job as simple as possible!
 
For a set of photos that describe much the same process (although they removed the whole bumper), see here. This is a Fiat 500 but the general arrangement and process is the same...

Torque settings are available in the Haynes AutoFix online manual for the Panda. Fiat say that the bolts through the subframe, as well as all those connecting the lower arm should be replaced with new.
 
Last edited:
Hi again earthman.......
With your experience you will not need to use a torque wrench.
This is unfortunately an awkward job, the lateral member could have been designed far easier to remove, I found a few choice swear words helped lol......
Yes it's a awful design having to remove the lateral member to access just one bolt!
If you utilise my method then there is no need to remove the front bumper which also entails disconnecting all the light cables etc, I'm a great believer in making any job as simple as possible!
Each their own I guess! Personally I find removing the bumper gives you a bit more space around the wheel arch; the only light connections requiring removal are any fog/DRL lights - you don't mess with the headlights. I agree you don't have to take the bolts holding the front crash bar out all the way but given the proximity of the bumper and their potential "tightness" I would take the extra 10 minutes.

I would recommend buying decent parts for the replacement wishbones; I went the ECP route to fix an MOT advisory and found I was replacing them again in 2 years - the subsequent OEM quality are still hanging in there 5 years on.

There's a video on YouTube showing a young chap and his cat doing this job in the rain on a 500 (same process).
 
I'll add some more information on this job below, the size of tools I used on those steps posted by Bio1213.
I did actually remove the bumper from the car, a 10mm ratchet ring spanner sure came in handy for those bolts near the wheel arch, the access is rather tight, there's also one T30 machine screw in that area.

12) The 8 bolts are tight so using a breaker bar "crack off" the 8 bolts then fully loosen with a ratchet, remove the bolts.-----15mm socket

13) Working from the wheel arch position loosen the top bolt from the vertical support arm, then remove the lower bolt, there is no requirement to remove the bar.------15mm socket

14) From under the front subframe remove the 2 securing bolts, these are very tight i used a 24" breaker bar.------E20 socket

16) Remove the single bolt securing the control arm to the subframe----E20 socket

17) Remove the other bolt from under the subframe securing the control arm into position------ E20 socket & 18mm spanner

18) Remove the pinch bolt-----17mm spanner and 17mm deep socket due to length of bolt sticking out
 
Back
Top